Track Frame Geometry Comparison

Advertised Track frames	Seat Tube Length Ctr-Ctr	level top tube Length	chainstay	BB drop	fork offset	head tube angle	seat tube angle	ctr to ctr wheel base	stand over
Mercier kilo tt	53	54.8	401	60	28	73	74	974	800
Bianchi Pista	53	53.5	380		28	74	76	947	774.7
Fuji Classic	52	54	408	58	4.5	72.5	74	972.9	755.6
KHS Flite 100	52.5	56.5	401	62	37.5	73	74	974	800
Soma the Rush	53	53.6	388			74	75.3	953	787.4
Pake Rum runner	53	54	388	58		74	75.3	955	787.4
Swobo Sanchez	51	53.5	400		43	73	75	973	762
Masi Fixed Uno	53	54.5	402	70	45	73	73.5	969	760
Surly Steamroller	53	54.7	398	70	38	73	74	966.6	780.5
Raliegh Rush hour	53	53.5		58	45	73.5	75	975	780
Tommaso Augusta/Ninja Pro/BAMF assassin	53.2	53.7	390			74	75

Kilo TT Stripper Preview

I really like this bike! the ride is quite amazing and the geo is perfect for my style of riding. I have it set up single speed using white industries 16 Tooth freewheel matched up to the stock truvativ 48 Tooth chainring/crank which gives me about a 81 gear inch which I really like. In stock trim this is a fine machine.

I decided to move over some parts from my other bikes to this one. Brooks b17, Origin8 17degree stem, transx bullhorns and then added new vuelta xrp pro wheel set, all rolling on conti gatorskins.

I commute to work, ride the bike paths and use this as an exercise machine. I was in the elevator the other day and this dude says to me shaking his head nobody wants gears anymore....I replied back shaking my head you will never understand until you commit.

I troll the cycling forums and it never ceases to amaze me how passionate some folks are about their opinions from top to bottom in regards to online versus LBS bike purchases. You have people asking for opinions and those who are more than willing giving out theirs.

I can tell you first hand; the phat cycles phixie at 4 bills (that I purchased from the LBS) has no comparison to the kilo tt stripper for under 4 bills both in bone stock trim.

IMO the kilo tt is even sweeter after some personal touches. I don't care what anyone says.

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Detel Bikes Marathon 2000

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Fixie fixation

Today I decided to flip my ss to fixed. I then rode 25 miles in town and on the bike path. Wow! I think I will leave my front and rear brakes on though. Talk about one of the best workouts I ever had! No coasting whew. I did try some skidding and IM sure it requires some learned technique. Its not for me. skidding means loss of control. As I rode I learned that a pause in pedal stroke is not a good thing especially around corners. luckily I didnt wreck. I also realized that you can go as slow as you want and as fast as you can literally. Certainly there is a range of speed that is much different when compared to a freewheel bike. Much more controlled by a persons level of fitness. Well I love the buzz of the tires, hum of the ss chain and, the occasional tingle of the spokes. The orchestra of the machine

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Origin 8 Tiki (Moustache) Handle Bars

I really love the old school look of these handle bars. I took a 15 mile ride the other day after putting them on. After half way through the ride I decided to raise them up a bit. Most people it seems put the brake levers on the bend using road levers or they put the cross brake close to the stem, I have also seem some put reverse levers too.. Personally, I did not like the way that looks and opted to use cross levers (aka safety brakes) in a linear fashion. I’m kind of amazed at how different the bike handles compared with riser or road bars. I did notice I needed to move my seat back a bit more then when I had the other bars maybe because I used a shorter stem. Also, I used cotton bar tape. Not sure what I think of this yet. I wanted to have a vintage look and feel with the benefits of newer technology.

Vuelta Pista Track crank set - creaking

I bought the Vuelta crank set to replace the Lasco crankset that came on my Phatcyles phixie. As soon as I got the new crank I removed the old Lasco and installed it thinking all the problems with loosening and creaking would be gone.

I was wrong. I brought my tools with me and went on a ride. I would tighten the Vuelta every so often on the ride and kept thinking to myself why is this thing still creaking. I cannot tighten it any more! I got home after the ride demoralized and wondering why I replaced the Lasco. The drive side was quite but, not the other.

The following day after a bit of courage I removed the non drive side arm. After inspection I found that the spindle had some areas where there were humps due to small dents and light damage to the end of the spindle on two of the sides. I went to the garage and found a small fine file and carefully filed them down, I looked inside the crank arm and notice some small burrs from this spindle and did my best to remove them without damaging the aluminum. Afterwards I wiped off the residue and applied a very thin layer of marine grease. (yes I have read from multiple sources the do's and don'ts, whys and why nots and, pros and cons of this) Then I installed the non drive side crank arm. Wala creaking gone!

I guess it makes sense that the four flat contact points need to be level otherwise you will likely get this creaking noise and wonder how to stop it when tightening the crank bolts doesn't work. I was also worried that I would damage the new crank arms so I'm glad I checked it.
Update: 8/24/2011 - I have ridden a number of miles and use this bike as a daily commuter and exercise bike when I cannot get to the mountains. The Vuelta crank I believe to be a good value compared to cost. Also it is not so fancy to look odd on a sub 400.00 single speed. 


After further research I could have definitely of got a better overall SS/Fixie online for probably a third less. 

Phat Cycles Phixie Review - Lasco vs Vuelta Pista

Since I have purchased the bike I have had to continuously tighten the crank bolts. I commute with this bike and ride for fun and leisure. This is a PITA. Seems this is probably the worst stock component on the bike. So far after 300 miles I have had no other issues with the bike or the ride.

With the constant tightening and creaking I presumed the stock crankset would not last much longer. I could feel them flex when I mashed on the pedals to sprint and etc. I started looking online for inexpensive but, better quality cranksets. The stock crankset that comes on this bike is Lasco brand these are the same no-name brand sold on ebay that come in different colors.

I went with a Vuelta Pista crankset from bikeisland.com

I notice upon removal of the bolts for Lasco crankset  there were no washers installed. They did use bolts with a washer molded into the head. Once removed I could see that the arms where they bolt to the BB was chewed up and that there was aluminum material on the bottom bracket taper and the taper was becoming ovalized. I presume that the aluminum used on the stock set is weak and likely not forged for strength.

The Vuelta crankset has a 46 tooth chainring as opposed to the stock Lasco crank with 44. When I installed this crankset I could immediately feel the difference in improved stiffness plus the higher gear was nice too. I haven't logged any miles with this crankset yet but, the initial ride seemed promising.

Update: 8/24/2011 I like the cranks and the 46 tooth matched up with the 16t freewheel. I think that puts me at around 77 gear inch. 

Phat Cycles Phixie Review - Single Speed/Fixed Gear

Since I purchased this bike last weekend I have put 110 miles on it. It is my new favorite out of my stable. The bike originally came with flat bars which I probably road about 40 mi of the 110 with them. I had some ergo cylco-cross bars hanging around and decided to replace the flats with those. Also I replaced the cheap CST 23mm tires with a set of 25mm Conti ultra gator skins then added some look clip ins I had in my drawer of bike goodies.  I wouldn't admit to anyone publicly (i.e. wife) that the bike in my opinion is set up near perfect for what I want. ( I want to replace the cheap crank and bb and add front brakes later) I took it for a longer ride today 29.47 mi according to my smart-labs exercise tracker on my droid. I have to tell you that in my opinion the ride is sweet and very sporty. The bike simple and clean. I stripped all the stickers except for a grateful dead sticker my son gave me and the bike shop one. Surprising the wheels roll smooth and so far no problem with wheel trueness etc. (I weigh approx 229 lbs) despite the crappy roads around here. So far this bike fits my purpose as a daily commuter, SS road bike and an exercise machine.

I'm still mulling over trying it as a fixie don't know how practical that would be for me or, that I'm in good enough shape to not coast once in a while.

Couple things:

• The KMC chain has already stretched multiple times
• The BB seems to be fine but, I can feel the crank arms flex when I mash the pedals
• The wheel set seems to be OK and roll nice
• The frame is very stiff by design/style (I like that)
• When they warn you to make sure the wheel axle bolts are tight before every ride that is for a reason
• The frame has crappy welds

This is a good bike at a good cost that can be very practical. If you ride around town and the bike paths this bike will suit your needs perfectly. I have wanted to purchase a multi-speed road bike (I do have a cyclo-cross) but, can't see the purpose to  expense value for me. If I someday decide to ride in the hills and mountains than I guess that would be a good time to look into one. When I road around my cyclo-cross I never used the gears much on the bike path and around town.

Update: 8/24/2011. The only thing so far about this bike that has been a PITA is the stock crank set. I have since replaced it added a front brake and removed the wheel and frame stickers. Although I have only had it a few months I have ridden it hard through city streets, bike path, commuting and for exercise. For that purpose this bike has served well so far.


But... I bought this bike on the spur of the moment when at a LBS. After further research and getting past the newness I started to notice certain things. 


The Bad: Crappy welds - how did I over look this?  No really they are crappy. The even more crappy crank set. I realize this is a bare essentials bike with bare essential parts. There is something sweet about simplicity. But, not dumping in a crap load of cash into it would be difficult for someone with upgraditis. 


The Good: It rides very smoothly, it is quick and handles surprisingly well, it would be difficult for thieves to take parts off it. Looks good as long as you are not too close.


The solution: I suppose I could replace the frame with a better one but, what then? Put crappy components on a good frame? Well for now I will try not to think about the things that bother me and simply ride it and ride it simply. 

Bike addict blues (New Drug - Phat Phixie)

Does it ever end? I mean I started in June 2009 with a cyclo-cross bike - Motobecane fantom cross, made some minor upgrades and adjustments so it would be more comfortable. Learned a lot and enjoyed it.

in December 2010 I bought two mountain bikes one for me and one for my daughter. A Motobecane LTD 500 and, a Windsor Cliff 4700

in March 2011 I gave my Cliff 4700 to my youngest son and my oldest son the fantom cross. Then I bought a Motobecane fantom trail and, here recently in July I purchased a Phat Cycles phixie single speed/fixed gear bike.

All bikes have received there fair share of upgrades and additions, change outs etc.

Then a thought occurred to me is it madness or sickness or some other thing?

• Fantom Cross ~ $550.00
• LTD 500 ~ $300.00
• Cliff 4700 ~ $370.00
• Fantom Trail ~ $595.00
• Phixie ~ $400.00

That rounds out to about $2200.00... This of course does not include all the other little upgrades and additions to these bikes. Some of the parts upgraded where then swapped to other bikes. I could only guess between tires, handlebars, cranks etc I have spent another $1000.00 over the course of 2 years.

So $3200.00 over the course of 25 months means I have a habit of  $128.00 per month. WTF is wrong with me?

I'm thinking to myself what can I upgrade next on the phixie? what should I do first? apparently I can't help myself...I want a new drug. I know some people think shit you could have bought one really nice bike for that kind of money or why do you need so many bikes? or who in their right mind spends that kind of money on bikes. I think really in the grand scheme of things that is really not that much especially if you cannot afford it.

I don't know but, I can tell you I love each one of them as they all ride differently and have different attributes. Of course now my phat cycle is my favorite but, I'm still itching to go mountain biking soon.

I think I need professional help.

Neuvation Mountain MAX wheelset

Neuvation Mtn Max 

I'm not cheap but, I like to get the most value I can. I'm not so impressed by name brand but, that is probably because of how I do things. I admit in the long run I probably do spend more than just buying the high end item upfront. IDK. The problem with me is I like dinking with stuff. I like to work on my own stuff, tweak it, learn it, take it a part, put it together, change it, improve it, whatever etc.

I purchased this wheel-set at an unbelievable price and figure what really do I have to lose? They have to be better than the loose ball-bearing wheels at least at a minimum roll more smoothly with cartridge bearings right? I know the battle rages on which technology is better or more durable. Plus these wheels are lighter than what came stock on my bike too. I suppose due to my weight I'm considered a Clydesdale so far I have had no problem but, again I probably do not ride as aggressive as folks half my age. Nevertheless I listened to the Neuvation story drank the kool-aide and honestly if I get a full season out of them I will be happy. If I get more then I will be impressed. Only time will tell I will update this blog as the season progresses. I also purchased a set of the Mountain MX wheel-set as spares and to hold my 2.3 tires

Update: 8/24/2011
Have had no issues to date with Neuvation MTN Max wheelset

Gravity MegaXO Quad (FSA)

Gravity 2 x 9 with Bash 

I just purchased this crank and plan to have it installed tomorrow. I was going to attempt to do it myself but, after pricing out the tools to do so (separately not in kit form) I thought well for 25 bucks it is worth having the LBS do it. I was pretty stoked since I got this crank-set and bottom bracket for a sweet price brand new. I guess I should have read more reviews but, not sure that would change my mind much. This crank-set is advertised as a XC/AM crank-set. After reading others reviews my heart sank. People were actually claiming they were bending the crank arms (they are hollow). Well too late for me. In any case I have to wonder what kind of riding these guys do - then thought, although I ride aggressive it is probably not as aggressive as 20 or 30 somethings. 

I do not do steep drops, high jumps or a lot of aggressive downhill so time will tell. I'm replacing what came stock on my bike a FSA DYNA-DRIVE 22/32/44T with Powerdrive around 994 grams less the BB. The gravity one comes in around 1102 grams with BB. Not sure there will be a significant weight savings my goal was to lose the 3rd ring and gain the external bearings.

Once I have the part installed I will follow up with my thoughts.

Update: 8/24/2011: Have yet to have any issues with crank arms bending etc. That others reviewers spoke of.

Using Kenda Tires Tubeless with Stans No Tubes

2.1 Kenda Slant Six Tubeless

I have tried tubeless using the Stans kit and also Stans sealant with gorilla tape.

The Stans Rim strip cost far outweighs the time in ease and refill of sealant. (Removable Presta core)

26″ Tires successfully converted:
2.35 Kenda Nevegal 120 TPI
2.35 Kenda Excavator 60 TPI
2.10 Kenda Nevegal 60 TPI
2.10 Kenda Slant Xix 120 TPI
2.10 Kenda Small Block Eight 120 TPI

26″ Clincher Wheels used for conversion:
WTB Speed Discs
Neuvation MTN MX
Neuvation MTN MAX

All scenarios work:

-60 TPI easier to seal sidewalls
-120 TPI sidewalls are more porous require more time

If you figure out a way to seat the tire using a hand pump let me know I tried like a furious monkey with little success. I have had to use a compressor to seat the bead on almost every occasion. Sometimes I had to go past the recommended 45 PSI to get the bead to seat correctly.

Couple of Tips:
If this is your first attempt allow adequate time this is not a quick process first time around.
When you mount the tire make sure prior to pumping up with air both beads are in the center channel.
Make sure that when you mounted the tire the rim strip (Stans) is still flat around the circumference of the wheel (When I had problems inflating I double checked to find the rim strip had folded over or moved too far from the bead lock).
Use lots of soapy water as this help with inflating and the bead seating easily.
Purchase the Stans injector then seat the bead. Once that is done remove valve core and add sealant I have found this to be the least messy during conversion.

I have had flats from nails and screws so even-though I run tubeless I still have the weight of the tubes in my pack. LOL

The ride is incredible and worth the extra hassle IMO But, it is a PITA to change a converted tubeless on the side of the trail

2.1 Kenda Nevegal Tubless

I do have another set of wheels because I do like to ride with different tires for different terrain. These have tubes though.

Hiking in Kern

I always wondered what the older folks used to mean when they said my back, knee or other appendage was stove up. I figured that it meant that that older person simply did not take the best of care of themself and were victims of how they treated themselves while they were younger. Or possibly it was related to not much activity or excercise. When I was younger this was always my presumption based simply on appearance.

Well the closer I get to fifty the more I understand exactly what being stove up is all about! On top of cycling I have also decided to do some hiking too. My son, brother in law and I  have decided to try to hike half dome in Yosemite. David has done it before and said it was relatively tough but easily doable.

I have noticed for the past couple of years that certain muscle groups seem to get real tight despite how much pre-excercise stretching I do. I once thought well I'm not stretching enough pre or post excercise so I made it a point to perform deeper longer stretching. That didn't really help then I thought well maybe I'm not getting enough vitamins or nutrients like potassium, magnesium and etc. So I began drinking more sports drinks pre and post work out. That didn't help so I went to the local vitamin shoppe and bought this special drink that contain everything you could possible need. That didn't work either.

Maybe this is what the old folks er I mean people my age mean when they say they are stove up. I don't know just a thought. But, I sure have been getting stove up lately :)

2011 Motobecane Fantom Trail Review

7/7/2011 - Update: Purchased a set of Neuvation Mountain Max Wheels. Went tubeless with Stan's and 2.1 Nevegal and 2.1 Slant Six. Bike weight 29 lbs!


6/7/2011 - Update: I decided to weigh the bike. It weighs in at 32 lbs in 16" frame.


Of course I did not weigh it before doing upgrades but, the Motobecane website claims around 30lbs. Difference from stock: Kenda 2.35 nevegal front, Kenda 2.35 excavator rear, Avid BB7 Mech discs, Avid speed dial levers, 44t chain ring removed,  stans tubeless and, diamond back BMX pedals, with Sunlight lock on grips, E3 Pro form saddle, SRAM sqwers and bar ends. This is 2lbs lighter than the Motobecane 500ht 17" that my daughter has.


6/8/2011 - Update: I contacted Bikeisland.com and asked a question regarding the bearing type in the hubs for the WTB Cross Country Speed disk that comes on a lot of the Motobecane bikes. Sealed bearing could mean a couple different types as I understand so I wanted to find out exactly what types of bearings are used. 


Here is the response:


Hello and thanks for your interest in our wheel sets. I'm afraid your wheels have regular ball bearing hubs not cartridge. Since all the components are different with cartridge bearings, It would be best to simply upgrade the entire wheel. I like these:

http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=1440

Thanks for your inquiry.

Best regards,

Jeff

www.bikeisland.com

So I get why they use ball bearings because it is proven reliable technology. I have been happy but, like a lot of people I have upgradeitis. I found some neuvation MTB wheels for 99.00 on sale plus shipping and tax.  These are about the same weight but, contain cartridge bearings. Which I think should be smoother rolling in comparison and that is what I'm looking for. I'm not sure but by looking on the neuvation website the rims look just like the WTB speed discs.  I have not received them yet but, expect them tomorrow.

Recently, I purchased the Motobecane Fantom Trail. The bike comes in just at 30lbs and is nicely spec'd in my opinion. Here in Southern California where I live the trails are mostly hardpack with some loose. Because of this I swapped out the original Panaracer Fire pro XC tires for a Kenda slant six up front and a Small block 8 out back also I just wanted to try them out too. I like the small block 8 on the back and am very surprised on what excellent traction it has had so far. These tires are some what specialized for my terrain in my area. A few weeks ago I was in  Fresno and took a trip to Auberry at the foothills of sequoia national forest. I found that the trails consisted of softer dirt and in some areas crushed granite. It was there that I realized how great the Nevegals were (what I run on my windsor cliff). Mostly what I found going down steep switch back was the sb8's did not dig down into the dirt very well during braking and the slant six in that same soil would tend to wash out a bit.

More about the bike the Dart 3 not as bad as everyone says unless you are a reall advanced rider. I have ridden the Suntour and RST entry level models and I can say without a doubt the Dart 3 completely exceeds those as it is plush in comparison and has rebound adustment. I'm 235lbs and the fork has held up so far.

The avid BB5 disc brakes drag regardless of how you adjust them at least this has been my case. I found a blog that describes a way to adjust the brakes and it did stop the dragging but, then the brakes were backed out so far that there was no brakes. I gave the rotors a visual and they do not look warped but, who knows. While they still drag a bit they stop pretty well. On another bike I have Tektro aquila's that squeel real bad when braking but do not drag at all and brake just as well I don't know what that means maybe I expected the Avid BB5's to be leaps and bounds better in comparison. I found some BB7's that I will upgrade too as I have heard both sides of hydraulic versus mechanical debate. Sounds like they compare to the Juicy's in braking and use the same pads so they probably will be good enough for my riding style.

Shifting has been flawless and has not required any adjustment after a few months even with daily rides. I did not know that the SLX rear deraillers did not have an adjustment barrel. The WTB speed disc have held up so far considering my weight and the hard terrain. I recently mounted Kenda Nevegals 2.35's without tubes using stans on them but, that is another story.

The ritchey cockpit components tapered bar, stem and seat post all seem to be of good quality I suppose items could be lighter but, will suit me just fine. As far as the ride the bike feels solid, handles well enough for me and I think it is a good base.