Vuelta Pista Track crank set - creaking

I bought the Vuelta crank set to replace the Lasco crankset that came on my Phatcyles phixie. As soon as I got the new crank I removed the old Lasco and installed it thinking all the problems with loosening and creaking would be gone.

I was wrong. I brought my tools with me and went on a ride. I would tighten the Vuelta every so often on the ride and kept thinking to myself why is this thing still creaking. I cannot tighten it any more! I got home after the ride demoralized and wondering why I replaced the Lasco. The drive side was quite but, not the other.

The following day after a bit of courage I removed the non drive side arm. After inspection I found that the spindle had some areas where there were humps due to small dents and light damage to the end of the spindle on two of the sides. I went to the garage and found a small fine file and carefully filed them down, I looked inside the crank arm and notice some small burrs from this spindle and did my best to remove them without damaging the aluminum. Afterwards I wiped off the residue and applied a very thin layer of marine grease. (yes I have read from multiple sources the do's and don'ts, whys and why nots and, pros and cons of this) Then I installed the non drive side crank arm. Wala creaking gone!

I guess it makes sense that the four flat contact points need to be level otherwise you will likely get this creaking noise and wonder how to stop it when tightening the crank bolts doesn't work. I was also worried that I would damage the new crank arms so I'm glad I checked it.
Update: 8/24/2011 - I have ridden a number of miles and use this bike as a daily commuter and exercise bike when I cannot get to the mountains. The Vuelta crank I believe to be a good value compared to cost. Also it is not so fancy to look odd on a sub 400.00 single speed. 


After further research I could have definitely of got a better overall SS/Fixie online for probably a third less. 

Phat Cycles Phixie Review - Lasco vs Vuelta Pista

Since I have purchased the bike I have had to continuously tighten the crank bolts. I commute with this bike and ride for fun and leisure. This is a PITA. Seems this is probably the worst stock component on the bike. So far after 300 miles I have had no other issues with the bike or the ride.

With the constant tightening and creaking I presumed the stock crankset would not last much longer. I could feel them flex when I mashed on the pedals to sprint and etc. I started looking online for inexpensive but, better quality cranksets. The stock crankset that comes on this bike is Lasco brand these are the same no-name brand sold on ebay that come in different colors.

I went with a Vuelta Pista crankset from bikeisland.com

I notice upon removal of the bolts for Lasco crankset  there were no washers installed. They did use bolts with a washer molded into the head. Once removed I could see that the arms where they bolt to the BB was chewed up and that there was aluminum material on the bottom bracket taper and the taper was becoming ovalized. I presume that the aluminum used on the stock set is weak and likely not forged for strength.

The Vuelta crankset has a 46 tooth chainring as opposed to the stock Lasco crank with 44. When I installed this crankset I could immediately feel the difference in improved stiffness plus the higher gear was nice too. I haven't logged any miles with this crankset yet but, the initial ride seemed promising.

Update: 8/24/2011 I like the cranks and the 46 tooth matched up with the 16t freewheel. I think that puts me at around 77 gear inch. 

Phat Cycles Phixie Review - Single Speed/Fixed Gear

Since I purchased this bike last weekend I have put 110 miles on it. It is my new favorite out of my stable. The bike originally came with flat bars which I probably road about 40 mi of the 110 with them. I had some ergo cylco-cross bars hanging around and decided to replace the flats with those. Also I replaced the cheap CST 23mm tires with a set of 25mm Conti ultra gator skins then added some look clip ins I had in my drawer of bike goodies.  I wouldn't admit to anyone publicly (i.e. wife) that the bike in my opinion is set up near perfect for what I want. ( I want to replace the cheap crank and bb and add front brakes later) I took it for a longer ride today 29.47 mi according to my smart-labs exercise tracker on my droid. I have to tell you that in my opinion the ride is sweet and very sporty. The bike simple and clean. I stripped all the stickers except for a grateful dead sticker my son gave me and the bike shop one. Surprising the wheels roll smooth and so far no problem with wheel trueness etc. (I weigh approx 229 lbs) despite the crappy roads around here. So far this bike fits my purpose as a daily commuter, SS road bike and an exercise machine.

I'm still mulling over trying it as a fixie don't know how practical that would be for me or, that I'm in good enough shape to not coast once in a while.

Couple things:

• The KMC chain has already stretched multiple times
• The BB seems to be fine but, I can feel the crank arms flex when I mash the pedals
• The wheel set seems to be OK and roll nice
• The frame is very stiff by design/style (I like that)
• When they warn you to make sure the wheel axle bolts are tight before every ride that is for a reason
• The frame has crappy welds

This is a good bike at a good cost that can be very practical. If you ride around town and the bike paths this bike will suit your needs perfectly. I have wanted to purchase a multi-speed road bike (I do have a cyclo-cross) but, can't see the purpose to  expense value for me. If I someday decide to ride in the hills and mountains than I guess that would be a good time to look into one. When I road around my cyclo-cross I never used the gears much on the bike path and around town.

Update: 8/24/2011. The only thing so far about this bike that has been a PITA is the stock crank set. I have since replaced it added a front brake and removed the wheel and frame stickers. Although I have only had it a few months I have ridden it hard through city streets, bike path, commuting and for exercise. For that purpose this bike has served well so far.


But... I bought this bike on the spur of the moment when at a LBS. After further research and getting past the newness I started to notice certain things. 


The Bad: Crappy welds - how did I over look this?  No really they are crappy. The even more crappy crank set. I realize this is a bare essentials bike with bare essential parts. There is something sweet about simplicity. But, not dumping in a crap load of cash into it would be difficult for someone with upgraditis. 


The Good: It rides very smoothly, it is quick and handles surprisingly well, it would be difficult for thieves to take parts off it. Looks good as long as you are not too close.


The solution: I suppose I could replace the frame with a better one but, what then? Put crappy components on a good frame? Well for now I will try not to think about the things that bother me and simply ride it and ride it simply. 

Bike addict blues (New Drug - Phat Phixie)

Does it ever end? I mean I started in June 2009 with a cyclo-cross bike - Motobecane fantom cross, made some minor upgrades and adjustments so it would be more comfortable. Learned a lot and enjoyed it.

in December 2010 I bought two mountain bikes one for me and one for my daughter. A Motobecane LTD 500 and, a Windsor Cliff 4700

in March 2011 I gave my Cliff 4700 to my youngest son and my oldest son the fantom cross. Then I bought a Motobecane fantom trail and, here recently in July I purchased a Phat Cycles phixie single speed/fixed gear bike.

All bikes have received there fair share of upgrades and additions, change outs etc.

Then a thought occurred to me is it madness or sickness or some other thing?

• Fantom Cross ~ $550.00
• LTD 500 ~ $300.00
• Cliff 4700 ~ $370.00
• Fantom Trail ~ $595.00
• Phixie ~ $400.00

That rounds out to about $2200.00... This of course does not include all the other little upgrades and additions to these bikes. Some of the parts upgraded where then swapped to other bikes. I could only guess between tires, handlebars, cranks etc I have spent another $1000.00 over the course of 2 years.

So $3200.00 over the course of 25 months means I have a habit of  $128.00 per month. WTF is wrong with me?

I'm thinking to myself what can I upgrade next on the phixie? what should I do first? apparently I can't help myself...I want a new drug. I know some people think shit you could have bought one really nice bike for that kind of money or why do you need so many bikes? or who in their right mind spends that kind of money on bikes. I think really in the grand scheme of things that is really not that much especially if you cannot afford it.

I don't know but, I can tell you I love each one of them as they all ride differently and have different attributes. Of course now my phat cycle is my favorite but, I'm still itching to go mountain biking soon.

I think I need professional help.

Neuvation Mountain MAX wheelset

Neuvation Mtn Max 

I'm not cheap but, I like to get the most value I can. I'm not so impressed by name brand but, that is probably because of how I do things. I admit in the long run I probably do spend more than just buying the high end item upfront. IDK. The problem with me is I like dinking with stuff. I like to work on my own stuff, tweak it, learn it, take it a part, put it together, change it, improve it, whatever etc.

I purchased this wheel-set at an unbelievable price and figure what really do I have to lose? They have to be better than the loose ball-bearing wheels at least at a minimum roll more smoothly with cartridge bearings right? I know the battle rages on which technology is better or more durable. Plus these wheels are lighter than what came stock on my bike too. I suppose due to my weight I'm considered a Clydesdale so far I have had no problem but, again I probably do not ride as aggressive as folks half my age. Nevertheless I listened to the Neuvation story drank the kool-aide and honestly if I get a full season out of them I will be happy. If I get more then I will be impressed. Only time will tell I will update this blog as the season progresses. I also purchased a set of the Mountain MX wheel-set as spares and to hold my 2.3 tires

Update: 8/24/2011
Have had no issues to date with Neuvation MTN Max wheelset

Gravity MegaXO Quad (FSA)

Gravity 2 x 9 with Bash 

I just purchased this crank and plan to have it installed tomorrow. I was going to attempt to do it myself but, after pricing out the tools to do so (separately not in kit form) I thought well for 25 bucks it is worth having the LBS do it. I was pretty stoked since I got this crank-set and bottom bracket for a sweet price brand new. I guess I should have read more reviews but, not sure that would change my mind much. This crank-set is advertised as a XC/AM crank-set. After reading others reviews my heart sank. People were actually claiming they were bending the crank arms (they are hollow). Well too late for me. In any case I have to wonder what kind of riding these guys do - then thought, although I ride aggressive it is probably not as aggressive as 20 or 30 somethings. 

I do not do steep drops, high jumps or a lot of aggressive downhill so time will tell. I'm replacing what came stock on my bike a FSA DYNA-DRIVE 22/32/44T with Powerdrive around 994 grams less the BB. The gravity one comes in around 1102 grams with BB. Not sure there will be a significant weight savings my goal was to lose the 3rd ring and gain the external bearings.

Once I have the part installed I will follow up with my thoughts.

Update: 8/24/2011: Have yet to have any issues with crank arms bending etc. That others reviewers spoke of.

Using Kenda Tires Tubeless with Stans No Tubes

2.1 Kenda Slant Six Tubeless

I have tried tubeless using the Stans kit and also Stans sealant with gorilla tape.

The Stans Rim strip cost far outweighs the time in ease and refill of sealant. (Removable Presta core)

26″ Tires successfully converted:
2.35 Kenda Nevegal 120 TPI
2.35 Kenda Excavator 60 TPI
2.10 Kenda Nevegal 60 TPI
2.10 Kenda Slant Xix 120 TPI
2.10 Kenda Small Block Eight 120 TPI

26″ Clincher Wheels used for conversion:
WTB Speed Discs
Neuvation MTN MX
Neuvation MTN MAX

All scenarios work:

-60 TPI easier to seal sidewalls
-120 TPI sidewalls are more porous require more time

If you figure out a way to seat the tire using a hand pump let me know I tried like a furious monkey with little success. I have had to use a compressor to seat the bead on almost every occasion. Sometimes I had to go past the recommended 45 PSI to get the bead to seat correctly.

Couple of Tips:
If this is your first attempt allow adequate time this is not a quick process first time around.
When you mount the tire make sure prior to pumping up with air both beads are in the center channel.
Make sure that when you mounted the tire the rim strip (Stans) is still flat around the circumference of the wheel (When I had problems inflating I double checked to find the rim strip had folded over or moved too far from the bead lock).
Use lots of soapy water as this help with inflating and the bead seating easily.
Purchase the Stans injector then seat the bead. Once that is done remove valve core and add sealant I have found this to be the least messy during conversion.

I have had flats from nails and screws so even-though I run tubeless I still have the weight of the tubes in my pack. LOL

The ride is incredible and worth the extra hassle IMO But, it is a PITA to change a converted tubeless on the side of the trail

2.1 Kenda Nevegal Tubless

I do have another set of wheels because I do like to ride with different tires for different terrain. These have tubes though.